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Glory 3139 M Street N.W. Washington, DC Meat 2.5 Sides 5 Sauce 4 Service 4 Atmosphere 4 Overall 4 Reviewer's Comments: I wasn't planning to eat at Old Glory, an old favorite of mine, but the wind was from the South that day, and as I caught a whiff of the smoke wafting up Wisconsin Avenue, well maybe two whiffs, I changed my mind. If your idea of a perfect BBQ joint includes mis-matched furniture, a crumbling formica floor, and a couple of toothless good 'ol boys tending the pit, you're likely to be disappointed. Old Glory is related to J. Paul's, an upscale yuppie bar on the other side of M Street, and has the same kind of upscale decor. The bar is a massive piece of wood from an old hotel, supporting the world's largest collection of bourbon. Patrons who have sampled the entire bourbon list qualify for a brass plaque, noting their entry into the bourbon hall of fame. Bar stools are extra wide, to support those "Q" loving behinds. So how's the food, you might ask? Let me begin by saying that the boys know how to "Q". A collection of trophies won at Memphis in May stands above the front door. Unfortunately, knowing how to cook and producing fine "Q" in a commercial setting are different issues. I always order the combination plate, and to be totally honest, there's not a hint of smoke taste in any of it except the ribs, which are finished on a big fire in the open kitchen. Although the pulled chicken, pork shoulder, and brisket are tender, moist, and tasty, there is no evidence of a smoke ring, bark, or BBQ rub anywhere. However, that's not the end of the story. The side dishes are absolutely fantastic, from the corn muffins with real kernels of corn, to the flaky biscuits, to the creamed succotash, to the lumpy mashed potatoes. The six pack of sauces on each table are nice too: East Carolina, Lexington, Charleston, Memphis, Kansas City, and East Texas. My only complaint is that the sauces come in bottles equipped with nozzles designed for pouring liquor, so the sauces tend to be thin. Overall, I really like Old Glory. The bartenders are friendly, there's a nice selection of beers on tap, and of course the bourbon collection is beyond reproach. Too bad the meat isn't better. Reviewed By: Bruce Baker ( bruce.baker@erols.com ) on 4/18/98.
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